Today we venture into the region of Dakhiliyah, a region which
attracts the most tourists. This region includes the Hajar’s most magnificent
landscapes, the highest peaks, the most vertiginous canyons, the most
spectacular fortresses (once great cultural centres). The people are genuine
and respect their traditions while supporting modernisation. The region is a
thriving farming community.
Despite its industrial zone, Nizwa is being developed as a
major educational centre. New highways are being built to connect Nizwa to the
rest of Oman. A new private university, the High Institute of Jurisprudence,
together with the Muscat Law School, will train Oman’s future generations of
lawyers. The headquarters of the Sultan Qaboos Scientific Police Academy are
also in Nizwa. These combined, provide many educational opportunities and, it
is hoped, may prevent people from leaving the region.
We are specifically taking this day out on Friday as this is
the day the market is on in Nizwa. The villagers come down from the mountains
with their goats and calves to auction them. The goats are the women’s
property, so before accepting a bid the men look towards their wife for
agreement. The women are veiled, but do not miss a thing. The men are dressed
as traditional Omanis. There may be a khanjar or rifle on show too.
An early start today.
Every Friday, livestock, especially goats, are traded at the
souk (market). The souk is extensive. Not just for trading cattle and goats.
Fruit, vegetables, spices, dates, handicrafts are all sold here.
The souk is adjacent to the fort which has been renovated as
part of the Sultan’s plan to develop the country. As the ancient capital, Nizwa
had a significant fort which was built in case of invasion by the Portuguese.
They never came. The capital was switched to Rustaq and back again as the
rulers changed.
In 1749 the current ruling family moved the capital back to
Muscat and so it has remained.
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| Common sight |
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| Putting on its best face as we pass |
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| Gate to enter Nizwa |
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| The women watch closely |
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| Old and young alike watch on |
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| A vast array of dates, now dried and flavoured, available to try and purchase in the souk |
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| Halwa. A traditional Omani dessert/sweet |
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| Quite a process goes into the making of Halwa which, when finished is often poured into gift boxes |
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| Inside the new section of the souk |
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| Some familiar produce ..... |
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| .... and some not so familiar |
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| Entrance to the souk across the road from the cattle and goat market |
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| Would love to have one of these beautiful pots for all manner of things |
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| The original market where they sell all the spices |
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| Saffron!!! |
After visiting the souk, we went into the Fort. Nasser guided us around this extensive national monument, explaining how it was used; how it was built; what each room/area was used for.
We saw a group of young girls being taught the Koran. In the main courtyard there was a welcome from two groups as of old, chanting to one and responding from the other. Quite a sight with their rifles, traditional dress. Young boys too were learning the ropes.
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| Silver khanjars (traditional dagger) on display |
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| A student learning room. It was actually very comfortable sitting on the carpet supported by firm pillows |
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| Traditional copper utensils |
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| Views all around |
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| Playing the shell horn was very effective |
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| Entering the souk |
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| Capturing the atmosphere at the cattle market |
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| Looking out over the old town |
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| A traditional mud house left to crumble |
Returning to another courtyard, we watched the traditional making of our favourite food - Omani Bread. It's not actually bread, more a pancake which can be filled with anything you choose. I chose egg, cheese and honey. Delicious!
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| Skill is required to not burn your hands when spreading the batter on to the hot plate |
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| Spreading a fresh broken egg across the batter. No pre beating. |
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| Some honey |
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| Fold, then more honey and oil |
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| Enjoying my Omani Bread |
As we were leaving the fort some of the boys who took part in the parade passed by. I asked Nasser to ask if I could take their photograph. Their fathers agreed. The boys were a little shy I think.
Returning to the car we also walked down a street with shops of all types. One such shop was selling silver items. A young man was just leaving complete with his purchased silver sword!
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| He was very happy to pose for a photograph |
Nasser later told me that such items are bought for very special occasions such as a wedding.
As we left the doors to the old souk had been closed - prayer time.
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| It was nice to have an opportunity to photograph the doors closed |
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| Main entrance to the souk |
We left Nizwa and after another wonderful Omani lunch – chicken, camel, salad,
bread, rice, snacks – we headed off again. We took a road up the mountainside
to see the homes which have been built up there, which we could see from the distance. Land is granted to Omanis and
the land here has been granted to the people from Misfah village.
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| This is in Nizwa to recognise the heritage status of the town |
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| Misfah new town on the hillside. This is the only town we have seen which has been built on the side of the mountains |
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| Traditional lunch |
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| Making our way up the mountain to Misfah |
We drove up the mountain a bit further to get to the old
village where the ancient residences are being restored and it is a place for
tourists to visit and see how the Omanis lived 300 years ago. Stone houses,
gardens, a water course from a natural spring.
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